A RALLYING HOLIDAY
By
V.K. Singh
During the
holidays, most city dwellers head for the hills or the beaches. The outdoor
types opt for a game sanctuary, a camping holiday, or a trek in the mountains.
Those who are more adventurous try their hand at shooting the rapids (white
water rafting), climbing a mountain peak, or scuba diving. Strangely enough,
very few go on a motoring holiday, in spite of the fact that we have some of
the most varied scenery in the World, especially in the hills. Till very recently,
the conditions of the roads, non–availability of reliable vehicles and lack of
support facilities such as accommodation, repair workshops and fuel acted as
deterrents. During the last 10-15 years, things have changed, and conditions
have improved. If a family has a good car, is fond of the outdoors, and does
not mind sleeping in a new bed everyday, nothing beats a motoring trip. And if
you want to experience some of the thrill of driving in a car rally, why not
drive on the same route?
The Himalayan Rally used to be one of
the toughest motor rallies in the World, while it lasted. The credit for
starting the rally goes to Nazir Hoosein, who got the idea after seeing the
Kenyan Safari. He formed the Himalayan Rally Association (HRA), which began organising
the Himalayan Rally in India. The first rally, which was run in 1980, started
from Bombay and terminated in Delhi. It attracted the top drivers in the World,
including Shekhar Mehta of Kenya, who won the first rally. However, competitors had to drive over a
thousand kilometers before they reached the Himalayas, where the actual rally
was to be run. There were also some incidents of stone throwing by a group that
opposed the rally, calling it a waste of precious resources – oil. This had a dampening effect, especially on
the foreign drivers. The organisers very sensibly decided to start and
terminate the rally in Delhi in subsequent years. During the ten odd years that
the rally was run, it attracted the top rally drivers from around the World.
The distance was initially about 3800 Km, to be covered in about five days.
Taking out the time spent at halts, it worked to about 14-16 hours of driving
each day. By the third day many drivers were overcome by fatigue, and there
were several fatal accidents during the first few years, most caused by drivers
dozing off at the wheel. Again, the organizers, very sensibly, reduced the
distance to about 2800 Km, in line with most international rallies.
The Himalayan Rally was run in the
hills of Kumaon, Garhwal and Himachal. Most of the competitive sectors were on
hill and forest roads, seldom used by the general public. The route underwent
minor changes from year to year, though the start and finish points were the
same (Delhi), and so were the major halts (Nainital, Mussourie and Simla).
Without going into technical details about the rules, penalties, scoring system
etc., the rally was a test not only of driving skills but also navigation. Of
course, a lot depended on the reliability of the car, and the ability of the
driver to get the best out of it. Breakdowns were frequent, and often the
deciding factor in the overall rankings. In fact, the only time one could
overtake another car was when the latter broke down, and not by driving faster.
(The legendary Sir Philip Young, who had won the famous London-Sydney Rally in
the seventies, could never finish the Himalayan Rally, though he participated
several times).
The route of the Himalayan Rally was
divided into four legs, each ending at a major halt (Nainital, Mussourie,
Simla, Delhi). In the middle of each leg, there was normally a re-grouping halt
(Dehradun, Ranikhet, Mussourie, Manali) of at least 30 minutes, to close the
gap between foreign and Indian cars. Up to 1983, the last leg of the rally went
over the Rohtang Pass upto Koksar, from where it turned back. In subsequent
years, this stretch was taken out, and the rally turned back from Banjar after
crossing the Jalori pass. For the family holiday, drivers can use the original
route, and go up to Leh, or turn eastwards, returning to Simla via
Kaza-Sumdo-Pooh-Kalpa-Sarahan-Rampur. This route is being used by the raid
de himalaya that was started a few years ago. If one has the time, the
Sangla valley is an excellent one-day diversion from Kalpa. lAnother option is
to go on to Leh, after crossing the
Rohtang Pass. The rally drivers completed the route in five days. For the
family holiday, a ten-day time frame is recommended, which will have eight days
of driving and two days of rest. The actual rally route entailed drivers
repeating several stretches. Some of these have been avoided in the holiday
route, which is consequently somewhat shorter. The route, showing the distances
and location of night halts, is given below.
First Day
Delhi-Hapur- Moradabad
–Kashipur – Jaspur – Afzalgarh – Sherkot – Dhampur – Nagina –Najibabad –
Kotdwara - Matadhok – Kalaghatti –
Gularjhala – Laldhang – Khara – Cheela – Hardwar – Bhadrabad (BHEL) –
Dhaulkhand – Mohand – Kothirao – Badshahibagh – Timli Pass – Kulhal – Malhan –
Aaasharohri – Lacchiwala – Thano -Dehradun (600 Km).
Start from
Delhi early in the morning. Drive along the highway up to Moradabad. Take the
road leading to Kashipur – Ramnagar. At Kashipur, turn left, and follow the
route up Kotdwar. The route from Kotdwar to Hardwar goes through reserved
forests, which are full of wild life, especially elephants. If you see a large
herd of the pachyderms, give it a wide berth. (I was once charged by a tusker,
and had to do drive like hell to escape). After reaching Hardwar, head for the
BHEL colony at Bhadrabad, where you again enter the forest, emerging at Mohand,
from where you turn right on the highway for Dehradun. You must get out of the
forest before dusk, when the gates are closed. Please confirm the timings from
the guard at the gate when you enter. (While on a route recce in 1982, we
reached Mohmand after the gates were closed. The Forest Ranger offered us a
meal and a bed, but refused to open the gates to permit the vehicle to come
out. We had no choice except spending the night in the Jonga).
I you feel
the distance is too much to be done in one day, you can shorten it by about 150
Km going to Kotdwara via Meerut- Bijnor-Najibabad, avoiding the route via
Moradabad. Another 130 Km can be reduced by going directly to Dehradun from
Mohand, avoiding the stretch Mohand-Badshahibagh-Timli-Kulhal-Malhan-
Aaasharohri.
Second Day
Dehradun – Doiwala – Rishikesh – Deoprayag –Srinagar - Pauri – Satpuli- Gumkhal- Landsdowne–Dogadda - Kotdwara –Saneh – Pankhro – Mohurghatti – Kalagarh dam – Kehripur – Amangarh – Dehla – Corbett Park – Himmatpur – Garyani – Chorpani – Ramnagar – Powalgarh – Kaladhungi – Khurpatal – Sariyatal – Nainital (500 Km)..
From Dehradun, drive along the road to Rishikesh. At Rishikesh you can walk across the famous suspension bridge called Lakshmanjhula over the Ganges, and visit the ashrams on the opposite bank. From Rishikesh take the road along the Ganges River up to Deopryayag, situated at the confluence of the Alaknanda and Bhagirathi. Follow the road along the Alaknanda up to Srinagar, then take the road going to Pauri. If you are lucky, you might see a leopard or even a tiger on the next stretch between Pauri and Kotdwara. Landsdowne is not on the actual rally route but has been included since it is a pretty cantonment, housing the Garhwal Rifles Regimental Centre.
At Kotdwara, you will again enter the forest, coming out at the Kalagarh dam. The route from Kalagrah to Ramnagar passes through Corbett National Park, and the chances of spotting a tiger are fairly good. (I have seen two, in six visits). From Ramnagar follow the road to Kaladhungi, where Jim Corbett lived. His house deserves a visit. From Kaladhungi, turn left for Nainital, stopping for a while at Khurpatal and Sariyatal. The lakes are smaller than Nainital, but worth a visit. You will enter Nainital from the west, reaching Malli Tal and the Flats. There are several good hotels close by, including Arif’s Castle and Manu Maharani. There is also the Nainital Club, which caters mainly to government officials and their guests. Those who wish have a break and do some shopping or boating on the lake can stay for a day at Nainital.
About 30 Km can be saved by going
directly from Deoprayag to Pauri, avoiding Srinagar. Another 20 odd Km can be saved
by going from Gumkhal directly to Dogadda, avoiding Landsdowne. An alternate
route from Dogadda to Ramnagar via Kanda-Gajriya is slightly shorter, but is
not recommended - you will miss the lovely forest roads and a chance to see a
tiger in the Corbett Park
Third Day
Nainital – Bhowali – Ramgarh – Garampani– Shaharphatak –
Almora – Barechhina – Ganai – Gangolighat – Berinag - Bageshwar – Baijnath –
Garud – Kausani – Someshwar - Pathriya – Golechhina – Majkhali – Ranikhet (365 Km).
This is one
of the most picturesque routes of the trip. The road passes through some
beautiful parts of the Kumaon hills, including the major towns of Almora and
Ranikhet. Kausani is known for the excellent view of the Himalayan ranges, and
Baijnath, Bageshwar and Garud are steeped in Hindu mythology. Song, the
starting point of the trek to the Pindari Glacier, is just off Bageshwar. The
roads are generally good, but treacherous in some parts, so please drive
carefully. The service vehicle of one of the Army teams fell down the hillside
during the Third Himalayan Rally in 1982 on the Kausani – Majkhali section,
resulting in the death of one of the passengers. Two years later, veteran
driver Carl Forsmark lost his life when his jeep went off the road and fell
several hundred feet down hill, between Almora and Bageshwar. Both accidents
occurred because the driver lost concentration or dozed off. Ranikhet is a
cantonment town, and the home of the Kumaon Regimental Centre, whose museum is
worth a visit. A short distance away is Chaubatia, another small military
station, which also has a Government orchard.
Fourth Day
Ranikhet – Chaukutia – Mahakaleshwar – Gersain – Adibadri –
Karnaprayag – Nandaprayag – Chamoli – Gopeshwar –– Chaupta – Dugalbitta –
Ukhimath – Agastmuni – Tilwara – Ghansali – Tehri –– Dhanolti –Kincraig -
Mussourie (450 Km).
From Ranikhet, one can follow the route given above, or an alternate route to Karnaprayag that goes via Someshwar – Baijnath – Gwaldam – Suna – Salyana. At Chamoli, leave the highway and turn left towards Gopeshwar. Those who wish to visit Badrinath or Mana can continue from Chamoli towards Joshimath and onwards to Badrinath. The Valley of Flowers and Hemkund are also just off the route, but one has to walk to for a couple of days to visit them. To go to Kedarnath, from Ukhimath turn right instead of left, towards Guptkashi and on to Gauri Kund and Kedarnath. Mussourie has many good hotels, including the Savoy, where the Himalayan Rally used to halt. We were at the Savoy on 30th October 1984 when Indira Gandhi was assassinated. The rally was terminated at this point, since it was considered unsafe to continue towards Delhi. Based on the points scored till Mussourie, Jayant Shah was declared the winner, followed by Rajiv Khanna and Ramesh Khoda. This was Jayant Shah’s third win in a row (He was to win again in 1985, making it four in a row). The first three teams were all from Kenya.
Fifth Day
Mussourie –
Kempti falls – Barwala – Vikasnagar – Herbertpur- Paonta Sahib - Sataun – Tiuni
– Purola – Naugaon – Barkot - Dharasu – Uttarkashi – Tehri – Kincraig –
Mussourie (575 Km).
After starting from Mussourie, you can stop for a
few minutes at Kemptie Falls. If it is not too cold, a bath under the falls is
a popular undertaking. The route passes through some of the most scenic parts
of the Garhwal Himalayas. From Barkot one can go to Yamnotri, which is about 50
Km away, via Hanumanchatti. At Uttarkashi, one can visit the Nehru Institute of
Mountaineering. To go to Gangotri, you can follow the route Uttarkashi - Harsil
– Bhaironghati - Gangotri. The days trip ends at Mussourie, but you can stay at
Dehradun for the night, if you do not want to spend a second night in
Mussourie.
Sixth Day
Mussourie –
Dehradun- Herbertpur – Paonta Sahib –
Sataun – Renukaji – Dadahu – Nahan – Banethi – Rajgarh – Solan –
Khandaghat -Sadopul –Dhalli - Simla (350
Km).
You will pass the famous gurudwara at Paonta Sahib,
before reaching Renukaji, a pilgrimage centre near a lovely lake. From Nahan
take the road to Solan via Rajgarh. This is another stretch where drivers have
to be careful. Lieutenant Colonel Gill and Second Lieutenant Srivastava lost
their lives in 1983 when their Jonga went down the hill after crossing Nahan.
The Himalayan Rally used to halt at Wildflower Hall, which burned down a few
years ago but has been rebuilt and is an excellent place to stay. A day’s break at Simla is in order,
especially for those who have not strolled on the Mall before.
Seventh Day
Simla – Kufri – Narkanda – Luri – Jalori Jot – Banjar –
Larji – Kulu Manali- Rohtang Pass – Koksar – Rohtang Pass – Manali (400 Km).
The
route takes you over two prominent passes, Jalori and Rohtang. The climb to
Jalori (10,280 ft) is quite steep, and 4 - wheel drive is an asset, especially
if the weather is bad. In the 1981 rally
it rained, making the road slippery and slushy. Major Ravi Kapur,
driving a Jonga, overtook 20 cars on the climb to Jalori, and was placed second
overall at the end of the rally, which was won by Ramesh Khoda in a Datsun 160
J. The rally used to cross the Rohtang pass and go up to Koksar before turning
back. You can return to Manali after reaching Rohtang, where a short halt is
called for, to take in the view. Manali also has the Snow and Avalanche Studies
Establishment (SASE), of the Defence Research and Development Organisation
(DRDO).
Eighth Day
Manali – Kulu – Larji – Mandi –Nulsar – Baggi - Chail
Chowk – Chowki – Jhungi – Pangna –Nagraon – Kalashan –Charkufri – Churag Sanoti
–Dharmour – Thogi – Jeori – Tattapani – Suni - Naldhera - Mashobra – Simla (325
Km)
This is a comparatively easy route, passing through the
major towns and some little known places in Kulu and Mandi districts of
Himachal Pradesh. In case you do not wish to spend an extra day at Simla, and
want to make it to Delhi the same day, after reaching Mandi follow the route
Mandi – Bilaspur – Kiratpur – Ropar – Chandigarh – Ambala – Delhi.
Ninth Day
Simla – Kufri – Chail – Kandaghat – Solan – Kalka-
Pinjore –Panchkula - Ambala – Karnal –Panipat – Delhi (375 Km).
The last day of the
trip is along the highway, which most drivers must have been on earlier. Chail
has a military school, which also has the highest cricket ground in the World.
Other interesting places that one can see are Kasauli and Dagshai, both small
hill stations slightly off the route. Pinjore has a beautiful garden that
deserves a visit. Chandigarh has been bypassed but can be visited by turning
right from Panchkula.
Before Starting
·
The
most important thing on a trip like this is the mental frame of mind. Each
member of the family must be equally enthusiastic about the trip. Ideally two
or three families should go together, in at least two cars.
·
Make
sure that the car is roadworthy, and all accessories and tools are in good condition.
Carry a spare container for fuel, a first aid box, water, food, warm clothing
and bedding (for emergencies).
·
Preferably,
there should be at least two drivers for each car, with previous experience of
hill driving.
·
Get
maps of the area, showing the roads that you will be driving on. These can be
obtained from the Automobile Association in Connaught Place or the Survey of
India sales office on Janpath, in New Delhi. You will need maps of Himachal, UP
and Uttaranchal. The best are the
trekking maps, which cost about Rs. 20 a piece. Alternate sources are the State
Tourism offices. Those of UP and Himachal are in Chandralok Building on
Janpath, while the Uttaranchal office is on Barakhamba road.
·
The
State Tourist offices will also be able to tell you regarding the road
conditions, restrictions on movement, availability of accommodation, fuel
stations etc. The best time for the trip in April to June, before the monsoons,
or September-October, before winter
sets in.
During the Trip
·
Remember,
you are on a family holiday, not in a car rally. Drive sensibly, enjoying the
scenery, with a short halts every two hours or so.
·
If
the distance appears to be too much to do in a day, change the schedule to suit
your convenience.
·
It
is advisable to arrange accommodation at each halt before you start. If this
has not been done, you must reach the place during daylight hours, so that you
can look for suitable place to stay for the night.
·
If
any member of the family falls ill, see a doctor as early as possible. Extend
your stay at that place, till he or she is fit to travel.
·
Food
is available in plenty en route, and the local people are friendly and
hospitable. But food and water must be carried for emergencies.
No comments:
Post a Comment